( Tired woman's writing from her comfortable warm bed at Khumbu Lodge, Namche Bazar( 3450 metres))
(Rs. 1340 total bill- had Cinnamon and raisin oats for breakfast at Phakding- cannot wait to start cooking and saving money!)
Lukla- Benkar - steep walk up to Monjo then a drop down to the river for a bit and then after one crazy bridge, straight up up and up all the way to Namche)
Was a up and down trek...saw a few people wearing tees which read" Nepal flat- a little up and a little down" which was so true as we just went up up up and then down...and everytime we went down our mind kept counting- every step down means an additional step up. We had to show our TIMS permit 3 places . I was surprised when at the Sagarmatha entrance i had to shell out 1500 NR instead of the budgeted 100 NR for the Sagarmatha entrance fees. There was an interesting board there that mentioned year and monthwise number of people entering the national park. October apparently was already 10000 people, record month it seems:)
So after a few ups and downs through forests and surrounding green mountains that looked right out of Avatar( i swear the scenes were inspired by here!) and then following the river sustainedly for an hour or so we finally came to another swinging bridge( oh and we crossed quite a few bridges today on the way- now used to it- and todays were long, more shaky and vertiginous and crazier still) and then after a steep climb down we reached a corner that offered us a beautiful view to the river below and the mountains surrounding us. Took a few pics and started our way up. 600 metres straight up with no respite now.Met trains of yaks and people walking steadily upwards.So many porters. My trekmate,the curious cat even tried to lift what seemed almost like a 50+ kg load.
The point I was waiting for was the elusive view point from where one can view Everest-the first view. Well I wasn't really waiting to see Everest, but was waiting to get to a point which is closer to Namche Bazar. I think we finally arrived at Namche Bazar at round 330-4 pm. I saw the Khumbu lodge( that was suggested by Roshan) from far away. Meanwhile passed Irish bars and Everest bakeries- i was uninterested- couldn't wait to take the pack off me back and sit own for a bit. Khumbu lodge was 200 bucks a night. - but the room had a single Queen size bed instead of the usual 2 separate beds. The toilet was clean. There was a sink outside the toilet that had a board warning us to NOT wash our socks or clothes at the sink and use their laundry services instead( 80NR per piece)..yeah right!
Funny thing is i'd read in McGuinesse's book(the 2002 edition) about the fact that Jorsale is the last village before the 600 metre straight walk up to Namche. We ignored that thinking the book's old. Sure enterprising tea houses must've sprung up by now. But turns out nothing's changed. We had to walk all the way up all hungryyy. With peanuts and dates and figs and digestive biscuits for energy. Plus we were stressed out a bit on the hydration bit. 5 litres H2O was a mantra we kept repeating.I think this is the first time i opened my bottle and poured down 2 hydration salt packets down the bottle - instantly refreshing! So once we hit our room, we thought we'll rest for a bit then go down. I tried resting for a bit, but coudn't really sleep.We went down into the cold to get us one of those warm socks. It was freezing already. Saw Bryan Adams and Eagles belting out from some of the "Irish pubs" in the street. We came back up and settled in the cozy dining hall. Was a nice spacious hall - very cozy and homely feel. Can't remember what i ate- but must've been plain bread i think.Ate, read, discussed bout India and Bihar and state of Indian Politics and the amusing tale of how I was reading on a K2 expedition while on her way to Everest.... Saw Thamarseku and Mt. Everest today.( which one's which!!!)
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