When I first thought of this trip and till the point I started walking at Lukla, my head was constantly buzzing with hundreds of questions, uncertainties and worries. I read blogs , went through forums, pelted friends who'd done it with nagging emails and called up a few. And then of course I went on the trek . I thought i should chalk down a few of the key things that may help. Besides the obvious things that you you already know about, i found the following items and tips useful:
1. Silk sleeping bag liner and Sleeping Bag: Even if you don't carry a sleeping bag( i left mine behind), this little baby called the sleeping bag liner is a very useful thing to have.Increases the warmth of your sleeping bag by 7-10 degrees.If you're going to be staying in the lodges, then you can assure yourself of a nice warm blanket. The liner helps dispel any fear of unclean blankets( I atleast have a clean liner). I never had a problem siphoning off blankets, no matter how fully occupied the lodge was. Plus, the one necessary piece that you will be carrying anyway- the down jacket can be doubled up as an additional blanket.
This is the one I use:
http://www.seatosummit.com/products/display/22
2. Clothes pins : Yes small to carry and efficient little bits of plastic/wood these are. Helps to dry socks/ underclothes / tees either at the lodge or you can even pin the wet clothes on your bag while you continue trekking. Your clothes will be dry halfway to your destination. Unpredictable rain/ stepping into streams etc makes dryness a mere assumption ( assumptions are the mother of all screwups;)). Makes sense to carry atleast 2 of thee with you, just in case.
3. Baby wipes : Very useful to wipedown the dust on your lower limbs. Bathing on this trek is a dream, with the biting cold and the expensive buckets of hot water. Baby wipes solves this.
4. Cleanser: I also carried a small bottle of cleanser. Made me feel better when i slathered this and wiped off with the baby wipes. This is not absolutely essential, just a good thing to have around though.
5. Stove, gas canister and pot: To save food costs ( Food is expensive at lodges . So i opted to carry my stove and some food provisions and save significant costs), I carried my Primus stove (
http://www.primus.eu/templates/pages/ProductSheet.aspx?ItemId=94559 ) . Superlight and it folds supers-mall. The gas canister is also light. Note: Gas canisters are NOT allowed on the international and national flights in Nepal, even if you check it in. You can buy the canister at Lukla or, like we did, at Namche Bazar ( 650 NR). Pot and bowl that I used came from this set:
http://www.rei.com/product/830774/gsi-outdoors-pinnacle-dualist-ultralight-cookset ( The pot is very light- your canister , stove and one set of bowl ( the bowls fit into each other- compacting this whole set even more - for two people i only carried one bowl set- that had 2 bowls fitted into each other)
6. Food:
a. To cook , all i carried is a packet of Cous cous - just need to boil some water ( available adequately along the trail) and add the cous cous in the prescribed proportion and leave the lid on for a moment. That's how fast it cooks. I don't like bland food - so I carried a few Garlic cloves and a packet of masala and some olive oil that I added to the water while boiling it.
b. Milo premix packets (
http://www.milo.com.my/milo_zone/pages/products.aspx#/3in1/3in1) which i picked up in Singapore were really helpful as breakfast. Just add 200 ml hot water to a packet of this and voila- malted hot chocolate for breakfast. Couple this with nice whole-wheat breadsticks we picked up from the bakery at Namche bazar, and you're set.
c. Garlic is a must eat on a high- altitude trek like this. It's a natural blood thinner and helps you breathe easy and your blood absorbs more oxygen. Even if you are religiously inclined to avoid Garlic, CONSUME it EVERYDAY - either through Garlic pills, by cooking like this, or of course the food at the lodges are generously garnished with this. At the lodges, initially i did try out the pasta and the breads. But realised its best to eat what the locals ate. So Sherpa stew and Dal-bhaat ( lentil soup, rice and some cooked vegetables) was what i ate most of the time. Dal bhaat was a little bland ( for my Indian taste) but is nutritious AND is cooked and served fresh.
d. Granola bars / Nut bars ( not necessarily Snickers), etc are very helpful
e. Dates, Almonds, Cashews, Walnuts and especially Raisins (nuts) are absolutely essential to carry, easy to keep popping even when you're walking.
f. Electral/ Rehydration salts. : Absolutely essential . Treks like these are very dehydrating, even if you're not sweating, and even if you don't feel parched, make it a point to use these in your water
g. But i'm not a Vegetarian - For this trek- you ARE.Killing animals is strictly prohibited in Sagarmatha National Park and hence all meat is procured and carried by porters/ yaks/donkeys from below Lukla and even flown in from Kathmandu and we saw how it was being transported -not cleaned and cut in refrigerated boxes, but in the open, on the backs of porters and yaks and donkeys( sorry, we didn't take a picture of this gory sight), you wouldn't need to be told to avoid meat:)- exposed to the elements ( and the bacteria) and remember there is barely any electricity and definitely NO refrigeration in this region. Don't worry the food isn't bad on this route and you have quite a few options.
7. Chlorine : Not the chlorine tablets which are too expensive and barely last a few days for all he volume they take in your pack, but there's a little bottle of Chlorine which is availiable almost anywhere and especially at chemists for as little as NR 40. One bottle didn't even halve for the 2 of us by the end of the trek. It really lasts . Although I drank and had no problems with the water on the trek, I consider it prudent to use chlorine for my water. Buying boiled water or bottled water is way too expensive and unnecessary.
8. Knee support: I found this useful on the way down to prevent stress on the knees.Of course my knees were still swollen all the 4 days of walking down. But this helped loads. Gotta use them to know their value. i'd rather bury my pride and wear these on a trek than not wear them and shorten my adventurous lifestyle.
9. Trekking poles: I used them generously while my trekking mate didn't at all. I found them to be pretty essential and useful especially for downhill walks. I got Black Diamond ones which have great traction both on slippery rocks and mud alongwith an extention for snow as well. Lengthen them downhill and shorten them uphill. Usual and comfrtable length is torso - feet. Keep twiddling till you find the perfect height adjustment for uphill and downhill.
10. VERY IMPORTANT: Remember that no matter how fit you are, you're susceptible to AMS - Acute Mountain Sickness. Who gets it? there is no defined pattern. It is very random. There are only few pre emptive measures to ensure that you don't get AMS - Drink plenty of water. Watch your pee. Don;t get dehydrated. Also Altitude is an appetite killer. However don't forget to keep on refueling yourself - whether its a bar of chocolate or a chocolate doughnut or an Apple pie - you've earned it and your body needs it.( I love such treks:D)Eat well and in regular intervals. Try to stick to the local food.
This trek is NOT a race Don't be tempted to give in to your competitive instincts and try to run up the mountain. The slower you are the better it is. If the guidebook says 4 hours, stretch it to 6 hours. AMS symptoms usually start showing themselves by late evening when it's already dark and the ONLY remedy for this is is to go down a few hundred metres which means walk down in the dark. You do NOT want to be doing that. In fact we were told that older people were somehow much lesser susceptible to AMS and almost NIL chance of them getting Celerbral Edema. Wierdly the ones most susceptible to AMS were fit marathon runners ( since their lungs are now used to taking shorter breaths which means at altitude enough oxygen is not circulating in the blood- result AMS)...bottomline, the fitter you are, the more cautious you should be.
LISTEN to your body and the porters and guides. Do NOT ignore symptoms AMS can be fatal. Read on AMS before you leave. Some hostels in Kathmandu arrange talks on AMS. If you see one on your hostel notice board, do NOT miss it.
11. Porter and guide. Guide is absolutely NOT necessary for this trek. Invest in a good map in under 600NR ( less than 10$) and you're done. The route is pretty much well marked and the maps are good too. Guides charge atleast 15$ per day. AVOIDABLE.
Porter- Depending on your fitness and confidence you can decide whether to take a porter or not. Usually one porter can carry stuff of 2 people ( provided you've not also lugged your easy chair). This was my first long trek and my fitness levels are not to talk home about. I have no experience trekking with so much weight prior to this trek. However I had no problems coz of the bag. In fact I think , the fact that it slowed me down a bit help us with acclimatisation. I carried a 40 litre sack and it more than sufficed.(
http://www.rei.com/product/809323/gregory-jade-38-pack-womens) Even if i had carried my sleeping bag, it would have fitted in the sack.
Porters and guides we found usually hurry up trekkers and make decisions about where to stay and stop. You lose a whole lot of exploring that you would have otherwise done. WHen you go solo / without a porter - you can always ask the people at the village and lodges and other porters, and guides that you are sure to meet on the trail for recommendations etc and they will help. Everyone speaks English and are helpful too. Yes, sure they are an asset. But you do this trek once - suck it up and bear it. Its not that bad. Pack light, cinch down and you'll be good. Also if you DO take a porter, take one from Lukla- they're local people- supports the village economy. If you hire one in Kathmandu, not only are you killing the village economy, but you are also loading your own costs since you will have to pay for their to and fro airfare.
12. Solo travelling - this route is pretty safe ( yes, even for women) and thanks to the TIMS permit registration points, if you get lost, they'd atleast know which area you were last seen at. However, do not take unnecessary risks or go too much off the beaten track and get in before dark.( that's what all the mommy's would say) . I'll just say - explore, but not your limit to AMS:). If you feel uneasy speak to the lodge owner. If at any point you think you need help or need to go down, don't hesitate to shell out the extra bucks to hire a porter mid-trek. Carry enough money for such emergencies. Again, Nepal is now becoming more and more strict about allowing solo travellers. Some regions, they do not give the permit if you're travelling solo. Even for the Khumbu region, they first disallowed solo trekkers and then withdrew this injunction in 2012. There are plenty of people who come to Nepal alone and then pair up for the trek at Kathmandu. Check your hostel/ hotel notice board and also speak to people in the cafe's. You WILL find someone. If you want to plan in advance etc, besides using social networking sites, you can also check out
http://trekkingpartners.com/ . I connected with my trekmate here and it turned out to be the best thing I did.
13. Travel insurance - In case o medical emergencies which happen pretty suddenly - you won't have time to blink, the only way to a hospital is via a copter-evac. Evac's are not rare. We saw enough choppers to develop a healthy respect for prudence and AMS. And charter companies - they charge upwards of 3000$.However grave the situation, they will NOT come to fetch you unless they first are ensured of a payment for the evac either through your insurance company or you pay them in advance.
14. Flights - to and from Lukla are dicey and hence keep a few buffer days on both sides. Since there are enough choppers flying into Lukla for evacs etc, and since they go empty into the Khumbu, AND if you're not getting a flight to Lukla, try to ask your agent if he can arrange a place for you on the chopper flying into the Khumbu, Worth the 200$ they'll charge:)
15. If you see a train of yak or donkeys , do NOT attempt to shoo them or expect they will stop in their tracks intimidated by you. They will continue to trudge along and you do NOT want to in their way. They aren't vicious and mean no harm, but get off the edge and get out of their way and let them pass. Porters have plenty of stories of people getting pushed off the cliff.
16.Use a scarf/ cloth to cover your mouth to prevent the irritation of the khumbu cough. Also carry lozenges. They help
17.Mountaineers scoff at this "trek". But it is tough, might tough. There is no technical skill involved. But just the altitude and the thinning air , trekking all day long make it so. There will times when you wake up in the wee hours feeling "did i bite off more than i can chew!!". You will be amazed at how the physical challenges on this trek bring so many emotions. You will forge amazing friendships with all those you meet on the way, even if you don't really trek together. Rest assured, everyone is following almost the same schedule and you WILL bump into them again and again and again. Don't worry either, ENJOY this. You won't regret it.
18. You can carry extra clothes and items for use while in the city and also all your shopping in Kathmandu and leave it at your hotel/ hostel. The hotels and hostels are used to safekeeping for their guests and you can safely leave any items that you wouldn't need on the trek and collect them once you're back.
19. Do NOT forget a strong sunscreen and keep applying it. i took this lightly and came back with a chocolate peeling skinned- nose.
20. I wore the same pair of clothes throughout the trek. ( Of course liberally using the baby wipes helped). I am a huge cotton fan However, I would like to point out the benefit of synthetic material ( the moisture- wicking ones) instead of cotton and wool on treks like these. Although you sweat, you don't really remain wet which is a BIG boon in the cold. If you wash these, they dry quick. The don't chaff and you feel cleaner somehow.
21. Socks- I wore baselayer socks - synthetic ones.- moisture- wicking ones The ones i got were from Adidas and Nike( 0% cotton) Did not chaff or blister at all. Again an advantage over cotton socks that retain moisture and cause blisters especially when supply of socks is limited and you're walking as much as you do on this trek:). Over the baselayers, wore Mund wool or trekking socks.
22. While sleeping, i used to take my bottle, hydration pack, phone, camera, batteries, all to bed with me, under my blankets. This is after waking up a few days to freezing water in the bottle:). Batteries discharge very quickly in the cold and charging them is expensive. If possible, should buy and use something like this:
http://www.rei.com/product/834125/goal-zero-guide-10-plus-adventure-kit-with-solo-flashlight
Very useful considering there is no paucity of sunlight on this trek. Will save a lot of $:)
23. When you arrive at Tengboche, do NOT miss the monks chanting at 06:00 and 15:00 pm at the Monastery.
24. On your way to Namche Bazar ( day 2 of the trek), do not forget to eat at Jorsale. The guide books are right...there is nothing between here and Namche Bazaar which is a 600 metre and a long hike up from here.
25. keep the prayer flags and stones always at the right of your path.
26. Sometimes is good to camera and ipad aside and just soak in the place. There are somethings that a camera lens may capture but nothing captures like your retina and senses - use them and enjoy this amazing place.
27.
Packing List
In your own pack (assuming you are wearing your trekking boots and socks with liner socks, hiking pants, and a base layer long-sleeve trekking tee):
Gauze
Band-Aids/ Moleskin
Roll of bandage tape
Scissors
Neosporin
Diamox (for altitude sickness)
Rehydration salts
Any personal medications
Lighter/matches
Needle and Thread
Multi- tool/ "Swiss knife" like a Victorinox or Leatherman
Cell phone + charger
Kindle + charger ( Kindle is LIGHT and super battery life. I didn't have to worry about the battery throughout the trek and more. They boast of a battery life of 1+ month)
Trekking guide book (
http://www.amazon.com/Trekking-Everest-Region-5th-Kathmandu/dp/1873756992/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371445482&sr=8-1&keywords=trekking+mcguiness - one of the best guidebooks of the region and/or
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1741041880) McGuiness's guide is available in 2nd hand book stores all over Kathmandu. If you get it from your home country, you may end up spending more:). the lonely planet is available in a pdf version - that you can read from your kindle/ ipad
Map( You'll see maps being sold all over Kathmandu and in Lukla as well. We made a mistake of forgetting to pick one up in kathmandu and ended up spending almost the double the amount in Lukla)
Face sunscreen (no need for body sunscreen since we always wore long sleeves and pants)
Small tube of toothpaste
Nail clippers
Extra batteries for headlamps and camera
Water purification drops
Duct Tape ( Very useful, even in case of a tear)
String/ Rope
Clothes pins
Sunglasses
Travel-sized hand sanitizer
Whistle ( many backpacks have these inbuilt now)
Headlamp
Energy bars/
Quick-drying travel towel
Toothbrush
Moisturizer
Skin Cleanser
Toilet Paper
Baby Wipes
Shoes/ sandals for use in the teahouse ( I carried my Salomon water shoes:
http://www.rei.com/product/829631/salomon-techamphibian-3-water-shoes-womens so that they could double up s trekking shoes, just in case)
Wool socks x 1
Liner socks x 2
Sun hat
Fleece ear covers/winter hat/ Fleece buff
Gloves
Buff
Bandana
Rain and Wind-proof jacket and pants
Synthetic underclothes
Fleece jacket
Down jacket
2-liter Camelbak water bladder ( Filled up only half since every litre is another added kilo and there's plenty of water available throughout the trek)
600 ml water bottle ( non-BPA)
Trekking poles
Sleeping bag
1 extra pair of boot laces
1 pair wool booties( picked up at Namche Bazar) - excellent for keeping your feet warm - either walking around the lodge or while in your sleeping bag
Tiger Balm/ Relispray
28.
Budget
Porter: 800 - 1300 NPR per day
TIMS permit: 1500 NPR per person
Everest region permit: 1500 NPR per person
Round-trip flight from Kathmandu to Lukla: about $240 per person ( $200 if you're an Indian/from Saarc nation)
Food and accommodation: Should budget between 1000 NPR and 1700 NPR per person per day. ( We spent barely 400 NPR per day since breakfast and one meal we cooked ourselves)
