Tuesday, November 6, 2012

EBC Trek: Day 12 - Tengboche - Phakding

1 November 2012

This promised to be a longgg day for sure, especially if we aim to reach Lukla since we have a flight out of Lukla on the 2nd...

Woke up and while having the usual hot chocolate breakfast, i read an email from a dear friend which was so funny- made me almost spill the precious hot chocolate.We were in an uplifted mood and silent for the first bit of the trek down to Namche. We were really glad we stayed back for the festival. Of course we'd have to pay for that today. But all's good:). Add to that that we stripped down the down jacket and the fleece jackets too within 15 mins of beginning the trek.There were a lot of promised ups and down- and sustained ones at that till Namche. Namche seemed to never come. When we finally reached the path that went winding around the mountain, parallel to the valley and the river, we thought just another hour. My stomach for the first time in 12 days started growling- announcing it had acclimatise well and now needed some food. I think it as just thinking about the Chocolate Doughnut that brought out the hunger. We continued to walk waiting for some sign that Namche was close. Usually when you're heading back, time flies faster , but this instance and this part of the trek it was as if someone had lengthened the route to Namche. It wasn't really tough- mostly straight. One instance- i was blabbering away and suddenly i rolled over the scree and almost went over the edge...took two strikes with my sticks to prevent the fall. SCREE is dangerous. But well. it was quite a few hours before we finally reached Namche and headed straight for the bakery. Only to realise they're out of doughnuts:(...Well we shared a chocolate croissant and a cheese croissant and napped for a bit.

We were exhausted! AND had a longgg journey downhill to Lukla . Post nap we still felt exhausted and wanted to just take a warm bed and stay the night. But had a flight the next day. We'd never make it to Lukla on time . So we started down. On our way up we had walked 600 metres straight uphill. This was straight downhill so was quicker but more strenous on the knees. We saw a lot of what looked like freshly cut trees. But they weren't neat cuts. It was as if some natural force had snapped them. We were trying to remember if there was a storm the previous day that could have caused this. We definitely hadn't seen it on the way up. We were confident of our observation powers. A whole pack of donkeys were ascending and i had to stay on the side. Man they STINK!Always try to avoid waiting for a donkey pack.

Post the downhill was the bridge and then follow the river slightly uphill. And then started the Nepal flats again- a little up , a little down. It was almost evening, we had maximum an hour of daylight and relative warmth.And Lukla which was all the way up after Phakding. As we kept walking the prospect of reaching Lukla became slimmer and slimmer. We decided that we'd walk till whatever village we'd reach till darkness descended. It wasn't too long. We didn't even reach Phakding whendarkness descended. Before that, was searching for a place to pee. Now since that morning, something strange had started happening, although i could feel my bladder was full, I couldn't pee it all out at one go. Peed' in small batches. I was afraid that I'd caught some infection. Anyway couldn't find a bathroom or a rock or some wooded alcove where i could go pee. Finally saw an outhouse opposite a shop. But was locked. SO went to the shop. Apparently the loo was his. He took 20 NR for me to use the loo!! Adam was amused. He sat and tutted- "awww its sad being a girl sometimes"... It became so dark couldn't see the path before us. Were we stepping on mud? or rock? into water? into SHIT?!Out came the flashlights and headlamp. there is absolutely no light between villages on the trail. No matter what, NEVER forget a flashlight and extra batteries. I was exhausted by the time i reached Phakding and it was dark. It was 6.30 pm.We'd walked for 12 hours almost. Long day. I remembered the way that guy had burst into the lodge in Lobuche and hadn't been able to speak for quite a while coz of exhaustion. I was in somewhat the same situation... Was dead! Well had bread and butter( YES I had missed bread. The bread after Namche comes from Namche and hence is stale and hence avoidable). The lodges here - the electricity is hydroelectricity so not as expensive i suppose. So i could charge my devices for free!!!Met a couple from Germany who were heading to Africa post Nepal. One of the guides was overfriendly - asked too many questions.Anyway...last night ON the trek. I was so excited, could'nt sleep.Of course not like the next day had the luxury of sleeping in late- we had to leave early to make it to Lukla on time.

When we called the agent in Lukla, he said that there had been quite a few cancellations during the weather and the backlog of passengers were being sent. So we'd have to only hope we get to fly out. I read a bit and slept. Boy my knees were swollen!


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