29 October 2012
(Dead tired and in the dorm at Gorakhshep)
By this point each day began to feel like a relentless and monotonous struggle. Except this was the day where, despite extreme exhaustion, weakness from loss of appetite and braving bitterly cold conditions, we hoped to find enough energy to pull ourselves through the last leg of our ascent to get to Everest Base Camp.
Was a crazy day indeed. We realised that there would be a huge bunch that'd be heading to Gorakhshep guessing from the rather fully occupied lodge and the number of people we'd seen in Lobuche through the day. (Most of the people halting in Lobuche are on their way UP and rarely anyone stops for the night here on their way down, unless of course like some heroes they try to do Lobuche - Gorakhshep-EBC- Kalapathar - Lobuche in one day). Lisa's porter had told them that to be assured of a bed at Gorakhshep, its better to reach as early as possible. Post 9 am- and you can be assured to be sleeping in the dining room ( which I don't really mind since its always the warmest room) . Decided it would be best if my faster trekmate hurried ahead and got us a room while slowpoke me trudged along slowly. Probably was one of the smartest decisions that day since despite the fact that I was wearing almost ALL the clothes that I was carrying AND the food was almost over and despite the fact that my pack was the lightest it had ever been, and despite the fact that the route now was probably one of the easiest so far, it felt like it my bag weighed a ton and every step felt like a curse. And there was that crazy headache. Met the Canadian couple. Matt - apparently the altitude got him and wasn't doing to well. AND they'd been trekking from Jiri- supposedly should be well acclimatised and such a thing shouldn't have happened. Gulp. now that's scary!This was a day of many false peaks. Gorakhshep wasn't visible till the last 10 minutes of the walk that day. Had to ascend and descend quite a few hills with the hope that Gorakhshep will be just after the next one. Was dissapointing to reach the top of a hill and see another one ahead. I think what compounded the irritation was the fact that reaching Gorakhshep would not mean the end of that day. That was just a pit stop to dump the bags. Another few hours to The final Base camp would ensue. I just did not feel physically upto it that day. Saw a baby wooden bridge across a frigid stream. Left of the bridge was a little cave, with all Stalagmites and stalactites. Looked peaceful somehow and not threatening like it really was. I think finally what did uplift my spirits was a combination of finally reaching the village and after 4 days, finally regaining signal on the phone! Unbelievably so the signal was STRONG- 4 bars up, stronger than i had seen in Kathmandu even....ha ha ha... and who would've though that THIS would bring a smile on my face:). This was sounded off with a beep on the phone which was a message from my trekmate saying he'd found a place. I was dead on the bed when i reached the dorm. Apparently he reached early enough BUT ALL the rooms in every Lodge were taken, presumably by the porters mostly. This is one of the places when having a porter assures you no headache:). Well luckily enough , nobody else was in the dorm anyway except a few people who worked there who came in to sleep at night. Post the dumping of the bags, my head was splitting- so went and drank down some Hot chocolate. That did help. But one draft of cold air in the passage post that and i was feeling queasy again. I just wanted to lay down in a warm bed.I had some amazing Sherpa Stew after which, i felt truly renewed and all negative energies dissipated...pooof! So off we went, with the Hide and Seek biscuits safely in the pack( that would be our treat for the celebration party..hee hee..chocolate lovers remember). There are no lodges or tea houses on the way to the Base camp and its atleast 3 hours each way ( oh yeah- this IS the longest day on the trek)
It was noon. We walked for a bit on what seemed like a desert. This was the Khumbu Glacier, or rather on the morraine. Sparse landscape with cold grey mountains all around. We reached a sign that said way to Everest Base Camp.
Was livening and charming in its own rusty, colour peeling way. Felt like that valley was ours and we were coming home.Most of the people were headed back. Gulp, yes it was late- we only had 3 hours to get back before it started to darken and snow. I started having second thoughts and despite travelling asolutely light for this leg of the trail, i was exhausted and said i didn't want to go tobasecamp(WHATTT). AFter another hour i again stopped and asked to head back and do it the next day. Well would i really do it the next day alongwith Kalapathar and the way down...nope! Met Lisa and the Autralian and the Swedes and the Japanese and the Indian . He said there's a party going on there at Basecamp. Have fun. wuhuuuu. Finally walking across the khumbu glacier was - i don't know amazing. Hard to put into words with the sharp loud noises that one hears when the glacier moves . And there were avalanches happening on the Tibet side of the mountains. Could see the snow rolling down on this side coz of the impact.
Finally we were there- where the fabled mountaineers and climbers have stood first before they finished ascent of the mountain. It was frigid, high, but yet somehow peaceful and beautiful. Although there was no view of the actual Everest summit, breathtaking views of the khumbu glcier, the surrounding mountains, seracs, tumbling ice made it worth it. There was a Korean camp down there. Celebrated with chocolate biscuits. Sad the altitude didn't let us finish the whole packet.( Altitude is a appetite killer and hence the sureshot way to weight loss it seems;)) Headed back.
We were probably the last ones and was starting to get dark. But was hard to not stop and watch the mountains everytime we heard a loud thunderous clap- to see the snow falling down and wondering WHAT must be going on the other side....Finally just as we reached the plains where the lodges are located, darkness descended as did coldness. We didn't even venture into the cold dorm. Just sat by he fire and read. the lodge was FULL. The dining hall was full. Finally when felt hungry, descended on a table- shared with a French couple. Tommorrow was the big day- Kalapathar and then all the way down, hopefully to Tengboche( really!) - my knees already buckling thinking of the downhill assault they'll have to go through over the next few days...gulp! For the record this was the best sleep i had in days. I didn't wake up once, didn't feel uneasy or anything. AND they ALL say that you sleep the worst at Gorakhshep.:)
No comments:
Post a Comment